All the Sensors in Your Smartphone, and How They Work

Your smartphone is a remarkable feat of engineering. It’s half a dozen or more gadgets packed into a single slab. Much of it’s coolest feats are accomplished with a wide range of sensors — but what are they and what do they all actually do?

How does your phone count your steps and replace your fitness tracker? Does GPS use up your data? Which sensors should you make sure are in your next handset?

Here’s all you need to know.

Accelerometer

Accelerometers handle axis-based motion sensing and can be found in fitness trackers as well as phones—they’re the reason why your smartphone can track your steps even if you haven’t bought a separate wearable.

They also tell the phone’s software which way the handset is pointing, something that’s becoming increasingly important with the arrival of augmented reality apps.

As the name kind of gives away, accelerometers measure acceleration, so the map inside Snapchat can put a cute toy car around your bitmoji when you’re driving, plus a host of other actually useful applications.

The sensor is itself made up of other sensors, including microscopic crystal structures that become stressed due to accelerative forces. The accelerometer then interprets the voltage coming from the crystals to figure out how fast your phone is moving and which direction it’s pointing in.

From switching apps from portrait to landscape, to showing your current speed in a driving app, the accelerometer is one of your phone’s most important sensors.

Gyroscope

The gyroscope helps the accelerometer out with understanding which way your phone is orientated— it adds another level of precision so those 360-degree photo spheres really look as impressive as possible.

Whenever you play a racing game on your phone and tilt the screen to steer, the gyroscope rather than the accelerometer is sensing what you’re doing, because you’re only applying small turns to the phone and not actually moving through space.

Gyroscopes aren’t exclusive to phones. They’re used in altimeters inside aircraft to determine altitude and position, for example, and to keep cameras steady on the move.

The gyroscopes inside phones don’t use wheels and gimbals like the traditional mechanical ones you might find in an old plane—instead they’re MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) gyroscopes, a smaller version of the concept embedded on an electronics board so it can fit inside a phone.

The first time MEMS gyroscopes really hit it big was with the iPhone 4 in 2010. Back then, it was incredibly novel to have a phone that could detect orientation with such accuracy—nowadays, we take it for granted.

Magnetometer

Completing the triumvirate of sensors responsible for working out where a phone is in physical space is the magnetometer. Again the name gives it away—it measures magnetic fields and can thus tell you which way is north by varying its voltage output to the phone.

When you go in and out of compass mode in Apple Maps or Google Maps, that’s the magnetometer kicking in to work out which way up the map should be. It also powers standalone compass apps.

Magnetometers are found in metal detectors as well, as they can detect magnetic metals, which is why you can get metal detector apps for your smartphone.

However, the sensor doesn’t work alone for its primary purpose, which is inside mapping apps—it operates in tandem with the data coming from the phone’s accelerometer and GPS unit to figure out whereabouts you are in the world, and which way you’re pointing (very handy for those detailed navigation routes).

GPS

Ah, GPS—Global Positioning System technology—where would we be without you? Probably in a remote, muddy field, cursing the day we ditched our paper maps for the electronic equivalents.

GPS units inside phones gets a ping from a satellite up in space to figure out which part of the planet you’re standing on (or driving through). They don’t actually use any of your phone’s data, which is why you can still see your location when your phone has lost signal, even if the map tiles themselves are a blurry, low-res mess.

In fact, it connects with multiple satellites then calculates where you are based on the angles of intersection. If no satellites can be found—you’re indoors or the cloud cover is heavy—then you won’t be able to get a lock.

And while GPS doesn’t use up data, all this communicating and calculating can be a drain on your battery, which is why most battery-saving guides recommend switching GPS off. Smaller gadgets like most smartwatches don’t include it for the same reason.

GPS isn’t the only way your phone can work out where it is—distance to cell towers can also be used as a rough approximation, as Serial taught us—but if you’ve got some serious navigating to do then it’s essential. Modern-day GPS units inside smartphones actually combine GPS signals with other data, like cell signal strength, to get more accurate location readings.

The best of the rest

You’ve got plenty more sensors in your handset, though they’re perhaps not all as important as the four we’ve just mentioned. Many phones, including the iPhone, have a barometer that measures air pressure: it’s useful for everything from detecting weather changes to calculating the altitude you’re at.

The proximity sensor usually sits up near the top speaker and combines an infrared LED and light detector to work out when you have the phone up to your ear, so that screen can be switched off. The sensor emits a beam of light that gets bounced back, though it’s invisible to the human eye.

Meanwhile the ambient light sensor does exactly what you would expect, taking a measuring of the light in the room and adjusting your screen’s brightness accordingly (if indeed it’s set to auto-adjust).

Like the rest of the tech packed inside your handset, these sensors are getting smaller, smarter, and less power-hungry all the time, so just because phones five years apart both have GPS doesn’t mean they’re both going to be as accurate. Add in software tweaks and optimizations too and it’s more reason to upgrade your handset on a regular basis, even if you’ll almost never see these sensors listed on a specs sheet.


6 ways to improve your laptop’s battery life on Windows 10

Don’t let your portable PC run out of power. Follow these tips and you’ll get a lot more battery life out of your Windows 10 machine.

Battery life is always a crucial part of any PC, whether it’s old or brand new.

We’ve already explained some techniques to preserve power on Windows 7 but what about Microsoft’s latest addition Windows 10? Thankfully if you’re using the new operating system, there are a number of simple tips that will help you save on power so you can continue using your PC that little bit longer. Watch the video below to see some of the tips in action and follow our guide for more details.

Tip 1: Turn off wi-fi and Bluetooth

Windows 10’s new Action Center makes it easier to switch off connectivity options such as wi-fi and Bluetooth which can drain battery life.

If you don’t need or Bluetooth on all the time, go to the Action Center by clicking the small square icon near the time in the bottom right, and click on Bluetooth to deactivate them so that they’re no longer lit. Older machines may not have Bluetooth, in which case you won’t see that option.

Wi-fi is usually used a lot of the time, but if you don’t need to be online for a while (perhaps if you’re writing a letter using a word processor) you can always click the Wi-fi icon to turn it off, which will save some battery as well.

Alternatively, if you want to switch all connectivity options off for a certain period of time, click Airplane mode and it’ll cut off all connections for you. When you want them back, simply click Airplane mode again.

Tip 2: Turn on Battery Saver

For laptops that aren’t plugged in to a power source, Windows 10’s new Battery Saver is a great way to preserve some of your machine’s juice.

Battery Saver does what its name suggests by reducing screen brightness, stopping push notifications and preventing apps from running in in the background.

Battery Saver is automatically set to kick in whenever your battery falls below 20%, but you can switch it on at any time (if mains power is not connected) from the Action Center.

You can also set Battery Saver to start automatically a bit earlier or later too, by going into the settings menu. Simply search for ‘Battery’ in Cortana and select Change battery saver settings at the bottom.

From here you can adjust the point at which Battery Saver will kick in by moving the scrolling bar.

Tip 3: Turn the sound down

Your PC’s speakers use up a decent amount of power, so turning them down even a little bit could help save some of your battery’s life.

Headphones also use less battery than speakers, so if you can opt for a pair instead, all the better.

Tip 4: Turn screen brightness down

The brightness of your screen is another big battery sucker. You can turn it down a notch or two by searching for ‘Brightness’ in Cortana and clicking on Display settings.

Under ‘Adjust brightness level’, move the scrolling bar down – but make sure it’s still bright enough to use.

Tip 5: Adjust power and sleep settings

Leaving your PC idle is a waste of battery, so make sure you’ve got the best screen and sleep options set-up.

Search ‘Power’ in Cortana and select Power & sleep settings.

Here, you can adjust how long your PC should wait before the screen dims or goes into sleep mode. Select a suitable time that you’re comfortable with from each drop down box.

Tip 6: Unplug any peripherals you’re not using

Got a USB stick plugged in all day but not using it? Remove it! Even if you’re not actively using it yourself, your PC will still be powering it.


How to Use iPhone Low Power Mode for Longer Battery Life

Squeezing the longest use out of your iPhone battery is crucial. There are dozens of tips and tricks to help you, but if your battery is very low right now or you won’t be able to charge for a while, here’s one simple tip to conserve battery life: turn on Low Power Mode.

Low Power Mode is a feature of iOS 9 and up that disables some features of the iPhone in order to make your battery last longer.

How Much Extra Time Does Low Power Mode Get You?

The amount of extra battery life Low Power Mode delivers is dependent on how you use your iPhone, so there’s no single prediction.

According to Apple, though, the average person can expect to up to get an extra 3 hours of battery life.

How to Turn On iPhone Low Power Mode

Sound like something you want to try? To turn Low Power Mode on:

  1. Tap the Settings app to open it.
  2. Tap Battery.
  3. Move the Low Power Mode slider to On/green.

To turn it off, just repeat these steps and move the slider of Off/white.

This isn’t the only way to enable Low Power Mode, though. The iPhone gives you other options:

  • Siri—Just tell Siri “turn on Low Power Mode” (or a variation of that phrase) and she’ll take care of it for you.
  • Pop-up Window—When your iPhone’s battery life drops to 20%, and then again at 10%, the iOS displays a pop-up warning. In that warning is a button that can turn on Low Power Mode. Tap it to start saving battery.
  • Control Center—In iOS 11 and up, you can add Low Power Mode to Control Center. Check out the section at the end of the article for more on this.

What Does Low Power Mode Turn Off?

Making your battery last longer sounds great, but you have to understand the trade-offs to know when it’s the right choice. When Low Power Mode is enabled, here’s how the iPhone changes:

  • Processing power is reduced—The speed of the iPhone’s processor influences how much battery it uses. Low Power Mode reduces the performance of the processor and the graphics chip to conserve battery. This means your phone will be a little slower and might not perform as well in games and other graphics-intensive tasks.
  • Background App Refresh is disabled—Your iPhone learns how you use apps and automatically updates them around the times you use them to ensure that the latest data is always waiting for you. It’s a cool feature, but it also requires battery life. Low Power Mode temporarily suspends this feature.
  • Email fetch is turned off—The iPhone can be set to periodically grab new email from your accounts. Low Power Mode turns this feature off and forces you to manually check for new messages (open Mail and swipe down from the top on any inbox to refresh).
  • Automatic downloads are disabled—You can set your iPhone to automatically download app updates or purchases made on other devices. This keeps your content in sync, but it also requires power. Low Power Mode prevents automatic downloads while it’s on.
  • Visual effects and animations are suspended—The iOS is packed full of all sorts of cool visual effects and animations. They make using the iPhone more fun, but they also use battery. By turning them off, Low Power Mode saves power.
  • Screen brightness is turned down—The brighter your phone’s screen, the more battery you use. Low Power Mode reduces your screen brightness to save energy.

Can You Use Low Power Mode All the Time?

Given that Low Power Mode can give your iPhone up to 3 hours of extra battery life, and the features it turns off aren’t completely essential to using the phone, you may wonder if it makes sense to use all the time.

Writer Matt Birchler tested that scenario and found that Low Power Mode can reduce battery use by 33%-47% in some cases. That’s a huge savings.

So, if you don’t use the features listed above very much, or are willing to give them up for more juice in your battery, you could use Low Power Mode all the time.

When Low Power Mode Is Automatically Disabled

Even if you’ve turned on Low Power Mode, it’s automatically turned off when the charge in your battery exceeds 80%.

Adding a Low Power Mode Shortcut to iOS 11 Control Center

In iOS 11 and up, you can customize the options that are available in Control Center.

One of the changes you can make is to add Low Power Mode. If you do this, turning the mode on is as simple as opening Control Center and tapping a button. Here’s how to do that:

  1. Tap Settings.
  2. Tap Control Center.
  3. Tap Customize Controls.
  4. Tap the green + icon next to Low Power Mode. It will move into the Include group at the top.
  5. Open Control Center and the battery icon at the bottom of the screen toggles Low Power Mode on and off.

Apple bows to mounting pressure, offers $29 battery replacements to regain trust

A week after it was first revealed Apple was slowing down older iPhones, ostensibly to stabilize performance, the company has succumbed to mounting pressure and, as an apparent gesture of goodwill, is offering owners of an iPhone 6 and later models a battery replacement for $29 — a limited-time $50 discount.

You are likely familiar with the rumor that Apple throttles older iPhones in an effort to make users resort to buying new devices. Of course, Apple maintains that’s not the case and it offered a statement regarding why iPhones may struggle as they get older.

Apple confirmed it slowed down older iPhones in an effort to better handle the power output that aging batteries can offer. Some users were upset. So much, in fact, that several lawsuits have been filed against the company.

“Defendant breached the implied contracts it made with Plaintiffs and Class Members by purposefully slowing down older iPhone models when new models come out and by failing to properly disclose that at the time the parties entered into an agreement,” reads a lawsuit filed by Wilshire Law Firm on behalf of Stefan Bogdanovich and Dakota Speas. The pair are seeking both California and nationwide class action status for their suit, according to a report from TMZ.

Apple Insider has reported that attorneys on behalf of Keaton Harvey have filed another suit against Apple. The class-action suit alleges that the company’s decision to slow down old iPhones “allowed Apple to conceal the true nature and scope of the battery defect and to avoid expending time, money, and effort on correcting it.”

The suit requests that Apple notify owners about changes to the OS, repair the flaws in the software that led to the throttling, and reimburse those who bought affected iPhones.

In light of the suits, on Thursday, December 28, Apple released an apology for the confusion surrounding battery and performance issues. In its apology, the company stated “we have never — and would never — do anything to intentionally shorten the life of any Apple product, or degrade the user experience to drive customer upgrades. Our goal has always been to create products that our customers love, and making iPhones last as long as possible is an important part of that.”

Apple also promised to release a software update in 2018 that will allow users to better monitor battery performance and health on their devices. Additionally, it stated it will reduce the price of battery replacement on all iPhone 6 phones and later to $29 for the next year.

Recent throttling accusations first appeared a couple of weeks ago, when a Redditor shared Geekbench results take right before and right after the battery in an iPhone 6S was replaced. According to the Redditor, who goes by the name TeckFire, the iPhone performed as much as 20 percent better after the battery replacement.

After the Reddit post, John Poole, who founded Primate Labs, offered a more visualized look at the link between battery health and iPhone performance. Benchmarking tests were performed on iOS 10.2.0 and 10.2.1, and show some pretty serious differences in performance. Apple introduced an update in iOS 10.2.1 aimed at fixing an issue where some iPhone 6S models shut down, thanks to uneven power delivery from older batteries in the phones. That power management feature is what was causing the performance dips on some iPhone models.

According to Apple, there is a good reason for the performance dip.

“Lithium-ion batteries become less capable of supplying peak current demands when in cold conditions, have a low battery charge, or as they age over time, which can result in the device unexpectedly shutting down to protect its electronic components,” Apple said in a statement to TechCrunch.

In other words, when an iPhone’s battery gets older, it becomes less capable of delivering enough power to the processor during a peak of performance, and when that happens it has to spread out the power requests over a few processor cycles. The result of that is a dip in performance.

That’s what is triggered when benchmarks are run — they look like performance peaks and valleys to an operating system, and as such on older batteries the power requests will be spread out. Upgrade to a new battery, and power will be delivered much more effectively.

It’s not all that surprising. As a battery ages, it stops working as well. That has always been the case and likely always will be. That doesn’t mean that the average performance of a device is being affected, nor does it mean that Apple is throttling your phone to make you upgrade. OF course, Apple could have been a little more transparent — a simple notification telling users that their battery is getting old and that they may see a performance dip because of it would go a long way. That lack of notification may be a serious point of contention when and if the new lawsuit ever gains ground.


Earphones Vs. Earbuds?

What’s the Difference Between These In-ear Audio Devices?

Although companies like to stretch these definitions to fit their marketing needs, the difference between earphones and earbuds essentially boils down to this: earphones (also called in-ear headphones or in-ears) are inserted into the ear canal, while earbuds rest outside the ear canal.

Earbuds

Earbuds usually do not have cushions, although they can. They are meant to be held in place by the concha ridge at the center of your outer ear, rather than sitting inside the ear canal.

They are often one-size-fits-all, which may not be comfortable to wear. Depending on the shape of your ear ridges, they may not fit securely and may fall out frequently. That is annoying, especially if you are wearing them for sports and exercise. Some have wings or loops to tuck under the ridges of the ear to help keep them in place.

Earbuds allow in ambient noise so you can hear what is going on around you. You don’t feel sealed off from your environment. That provides a small measure of safety for outdoor exercise such as running or walking while wearing earbuds.

Earbuds have generally not had the same performance as high-end headphones, often lacking bass and sounding tinny.  If you’re buying ear buds, the good news is they are often less expensive than earphones and in-ear headphones. If you want something for the gym that you don’t care if you step on them on the treadmill, or if you need the thirty-umpth pair for your teenager, ear buds are your friends.

Earphones – In-ears – In-ear Headphones

In-ears often feature different sizes and types of ear cushions to achieve the most comfortable fit possible. Examples of cushions include memory foam, rubber, and silicone. Some are shaped to lock into the concha and have a protrusion that extends further into the ear canal.

As with earbuds, you may find that they fall out if the fit is not snug enough, and they may not be comfortable if the fit is too tight. The kind that is designed to lock into your concha may be more secure, but you may also be trading off some comfort. Some high-end earphones are custom fitted to your ear with an ear mold done by an audiologist.

The wires may extend straight down, or they may be designed to go up and over the ear, or swivel for either configuration.

Don’t let their small sizes fool you — earphones can get into the extremely high end of the price and performance spectrum.

Wireless Earbuds and Earphones

Wireless versions of earbuds and in-ears often have a larger earpiece to accommodate the Bluetooth mechanism and controls, or have them on a thicker behind-the-neck cord. This adds additional bulk and weight. Another factor with wireless audio devices is that they are powered and need to be recharged after a few hours of use. With the iPhone 7 eliminating the audio jack port, many more designs will enter the marketplace for wireless earbuds and in-ears.


Clean Headphones

Dirty headphones can be a pain for many. If your headphones are dirty, this can result in muffled sounds and can expose your ears to bacteria. Most headphones can be cleaned with either hydrogen peroxide or dish soap and water. If your headphones have detachable tips, remove them and clean them separately.

  1. Using Hydrogen Peroxide

Some headphones have clear tips covering the ends of the buds. If there are clear tips on your headphones, remove them before cleaning your headphones. Wipe them down with a soft cloth with a small amount of hydrogen peroxide and then set them aside to dry. Dislodge any obvious debris. Get a soft cloth mildly damp with hydrogen peroxide. Rub down the mesh screens of the earbuds. Make sure to remove any earwax or obvious dirt and debris using your soft cloth. After applying the hydrogen peroxide set your earbuds aside. Allow the hydrogen peroxide to soak into your earbuds for about five minute. This will help soften any lingering ear wax, dirt, and debris. Use a soft bristled toothbrush. Gently scrub down your earbuds, focusing on the mesh screen in particular. Scrub down the buds so you remove any wax or dirt blocking the holes in your earbuds. Gently shake out the earbuds to remove any obvious water. From there, dab them dry further with a paper towel. Set them aside if they’re still wet to let them dry completely. If you removed the tips of your headphones earlier in the process, put them back in place once everything is dry. Your headphones should now be clean and ready to use.

  1. Cleaning with Soapy Water

If your headphones have removable tips remove them before you begin the cleaning process. Rub them down with a soft cloth dampened with warm water. Then, set them aside to dry. Use a very small amount of dishwashing detergent on a wet soft cloth. After adding the detergent, wring the rag out thoroughly over the sink. It should be just barely damp, and only contain a small amount of soap, when you apply it to your headphones. Wipe down your headphones with your rag. Focus particularly on the mesh screens, making sure to remove any dirt and debris that’s blocking the holes in the headphones. Take a new cloth and get it damp with clean water. Remember to wring it out so it’s just barely damp before applying it to your headphones. Wipe down your headphones to remove any soap residue.Set your headphones aside until they’re completely dry. When everything is dry to the touch, put the caps back on your headphones. You can now use your headphones again.

 

If you don’t clean them and they become coated in wax, you won’t be able to hear out of them, just like you can’t hear well out of your ears when they are clogged.


Laptop Display and Graphics Guide

How to Choose the Proper Display and Graphics for a Laptop

When looking at the video for a laptop there are four items to look over: screen size, resolution, screen type and graphics processor. For most people, only the screen size and resolution are all that will really matter. The graphics processor really only tends to make a difference for those looking to possibly do some mobile gaming or high-definition video but they can be used for more than that.

Pretty much all laptops use some form of backlit active matrix display to allow for bright fast displays capable of video playback.

Screen Size

Laptop screens have a wide range of sizes depending upon the type of laptop system that you are looking at. Larger screens provide an easier to view screen such as those for desktop replacements. Ultraportables tend to have smaller screens allowing for a reduced size and increased portability. Almost all systems now offer a wide aspect ratio screen either for a more cinematic display or to reduce the size of the screen in the depth dimension for an overall smaller system size.

All screens sizes are given in a diagonal measurement. This is the measurement from the lower screen corner to the opposite upper corner of the screen. This will typically be the actually visible display area. Here is a chart of the average screen sizes for different style laptops:

  • Ultraportable: 13.3″ or Less
  • Thin and Light: 14″ to 16″
  • Desktop Replacement: 17″ to 19″
  • Luggables: 20″ and Higher

Resolution

Screen resolution or native resolution is the number of pixels on the display listed in the number across the screen by the number down the screen. Laptop displays look best when the graphics are run at this native resolution.

While it is possible to run at a lower resolution, doing so creates an extrapolated display. An extrapolated display tends to cause reduced image clarity as the system has to use multiple pixels to try and display how a single pixel would normally appear.

Higher native resolutions allow for a greater detail in the image and increased work space on the display. The drawback to high resolution displays is that fonts tend to be smaller and can be more difficult to read without font scaling. This can be a particular drawback for people who have poor eyesight. It can be compensated by changing the font size in the operating system, but this may have unintended results in some programs. Windows has this problem in particular with the latest high resolution displays and desktop mode applications. Below is a chart of the various video acronyms that refer to resolutions:

  • WXGA: 1366×768 or 1280×800
  • SXGA: 1280×1024
  • SXGA+: 1400×1050
  • WXGA+: 1440×900
  • WSXGA+: 1600×900 or 1680×1050
  • UXGA: 1600×1200
  • WUXGA: 1920×1080 or 1920×1200
  • WQHD: 2560×1440
  • WQXGA: 2560×1600
  • WQXGA+: 2880×1800
  • WQSXGA+: 3800×1800
  • UHD: 3840×2160 or 4096×2160

Screen Type

While the screen size and resolution are the primary features that will be mentioned by manufacturers and retailers, the screen type can also make a huge difference in how the video performs.

By type I am referring to what technology is used for the LCD panel and the coating that is used over the screen.

There are two basic technologies that are used in LCD panels for laptops right now. They are TN and IPS. TN panels are the most common as they are the least expensive and also tend to offer faster refresh rates. They do have disadvantages including narrow viewing angles and colors. Now, the viewing angles impact how well the screen color and brightness looks the further off center you viewing the panel at. Color refers to the color gamut or total number of colors that the screen can display.

TN panels offer less overall color but this typically only matters for graphics designers. For those wanting higher color and viewing angles, IPS does both of these better but they tend to cost more and have slower refresh rates and are not as suited for gaming or fast video.

IGZO is a term that is being mentioned more often regarding flat panel displays. This is a new chemical composition for building displays that is replacing the traditional silica substrate. The primary benefits of the technology is to allow for thinner display panels with lower power consumption. This will eventually be a major benefit for portable computing especially as a way to combat the extra power consumption that comes with higher resolution displays. The problem is this technology is very expensive right now so not very common.

OLED is another technology that is starting to show up in some laptops. It has been used for high end mobile devices like smart phones for some time. The primary difference between OLED and LCD technologies is the fact that there is no backlight on them. Instead, the pixels themselves generated the light from the display. This gives them better overall contrast ratios and better color.

Touchscreens are becoming a major featuring in many Windows based laptops thanks to the new Windows interface design based around touch. It should be noted that this can easily replace the trackpad for many people as they navigate the operating system. There are a couple downsides to touchscreens through as they generally add to the cost of a laptop and also draw more power meaning that they have less running time on batteries than a non-touchscreen version.

Those laptops that do have touchscreens might come with a display that has the ability to be folded over or spun around to also provide a tablet experience. These were often referred to as convertible or hybrid laptops. Another term for them now thanks to Intel’s marketing is 2-in-1. The important thing to consider with these types of systems is the ease of use in the tablet mode as based on the screen size. Often, the smallest screens such as 11-inch work best for these designs but some companies make them up to 15-inches which are frankly difficult to hold and use.

The majority of consumer laptops tend to use glossy coatings over the LCD panels. This offers a greater level of color and brightness to come through to the viewer. The downside is that they are more difficult to use in certain light such as outdoors without producing a large amount of glare. They do look great in home environments where it is easier to control glare. Pretty much every display panel that features touchscreen uses a form of glossy coating. This is because the hardended glass coatings are better at combating fingerprints plus they are much easier to clean.

While most consumer laptops feature glossy coatings, corporate style laptops generally feature anti-glare or matte coatings. They help reduce the amount of external light from reflecting on the screen making them much better for office lighting or outdoors. The downside is that the contrast and brightness tend to be a bit more muted on these displays.

So, why is a glossy or matte display important to consider? Basically think of common areas where you will use a laptop. If they might produce a lot of glare, you should opt for something with an anti-glare coating if possible or the laptop should have very high brightness.

Graphics Processor

In the past, graphics processors have not been much of an issue for consumer laptops. The majority of users were not doing much graphically that required 3D graphics or accelerated video. This has changed as more and more people use their laptops as their exclusive machine. Recent advancements in integrated graphics have made it less necessary to have a dedicated graphics processor but they can still be beneficial. The primary reasons for having a dedicated graphics processor is either for 3D graphics (gaming or multimedia) and accelerating non-gaming applications such as Photoshop. On the flip side, integrated graphics can also offer improved performance such as Intel’s HD Graphics that support Quick Sync Video for accelerated media encoding.

The two major suppliers of dedicated graphics processors for laptops are AMD (formerly ATI) and NVIDIA. The following chart lists the current crop of graphics processors for laptop PCs from the two companies. They are listed in the approximate order of estimated performance from highest to lowest. If you’re looking to buy a gaming laptop it is important to know that they should have at least a minimum of 1GB of dedicated graphics memory but preferably higher. (Note that this list has been shortened to just the latest versions of the graphics processors plus one previous generation models.)

  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080M
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070M
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M
  • AMD Radeon R9 M395X
  • AMD Radeon R9 M485X
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970M
  • AMD Radeon R9 M390X
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060M
  • AMD Radeon R9 M385X
  • AMD Radeon R8 M470X
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 965M
  • AMD Radeon R9 M380
  • AMD Radeon R9 M470
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M
  • AMD Radeon R9 M375
  • AMD Radeon R9 M365X
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 950M
  • AMD Radeon R7 M360
  • NVIDIA GeForce 940M
  • AMD Radeon R7 M340
  • NVIDIA GeForce 930M
  • NVIDIA GeForce 920M
  • AMD Radeon R5 M330
  • AMD Radeon R5 M320
  • AMD Radeon R5 M315

In addition to these processors, AMD and NVIDIA both have technologies that can allow certain graphics processors to run in pairs for additional performance. AMD’s technology is referred to as CrossFire while NVIDIA’s is SLI. While the performance is increased, battery life for such laptops is greatly reduced due to the extra power consumption.


Refurbished Desktop and Laptop Computers

Sometimes offers for desktop and laptop computers seem to be priced too low to be real. In the description of these products you might find the term refurbished. Both manufacturers and retailers may be offering these systems below what a normal PC costs, but what is a refurbished product and are they safe to buy?

Refurbished computers typically fall into one of two categories. The first type have failed a quality control check during manufacturing.

Rather than simply disposing of these systems, the manufacturer will rebuild it to pass quality control but sell it at a discounted price. The other type is a rebuilt system from a customer return likely due to a component failure.

Now the refurbishment of the product may be done by the manufacturer or a third party. Manufacturers rebuild the system using the same parts used in the new PCs. A third party that rebuilds the machine may use alternate parts to get it up and running. These alternate parts may change the system from its original design. This makes it important that the consumer read the specifications of the refurbished system and compare them to the standard specs for the product.

Another type of product that consumers will find discounted is an open box product. These differ from a refurbished product as it has not been rebuilt. It is simply a product that was returned by a customer but it has not been tested.

Consumers should be very careful when purchasing any open box products.

Costs

Cost is the primary reason people purchase refurbished desktops and laptops. They are often priced below the average computer system currently sold. Of course the amount of discount is only really relevant if you happen to be looking at the same exact product.

Most refurbished PCs available will typically be older products that are being compared to the original suggested retail prices for the product when it was first released. As a result, the deals may not always be the best.

When pricing a refurbished computer, it is important to note if the system is still available for sale new. If it is, this makes the price comparison very easy to determine. PCs such as this generally can be found for modest discounts of between 10 and 25% off the retail prices. As long as they have similar warranties to the new products these can be an excellent way to get a system for below retail.

The problem comes from older systems that are no longer sold. Consumers are often tricked into paying for a system that looks like a good deal but is not. This is where the specifications become extremely important. With those in hand, try to find a comparable brand new system. If one is available, then the same cost analysis of 10 to 25% still holds. If a comparable system is not available, then look for an equally priced new system and see what you get. Often times consumers in this case will find that for the same price they can get a better, newer laptop or desktop.

Warranties

The key to any refurbished computer system is the warranty. These are products that typically were returned or rejected due to a defect. While that defect may have been corrected and no further problems may develop you want to make sure that some coverage is included for potential faults. The problem is that warranties are typically modified for refurbished products.

First and foremost, the warranty should be a manufacturer one. If the warranty is not provided by the manufacturer it should raise a red flag for consumers. A manufacturer warranty will guarantee that the system will be repaired to the original specifications with manufacturer parts or certified replacements can be used with the system.

Third party warranties can cause major problems as replacements parts may not be guaranteed and it may take longer for the system to be repaired.

The next thing to look at is the length of the warranty. It should provide the same length as if it was purchased new. If the manufacturer is not offering the same coverage consumers should once again beware. The lower cost of the system may be the result of them not offering to support the product.

Finally, be wary of extended warranties. If an optional warranty is offered for purchase with the system, it should be a manufacturer extended warranty and not one through a third party. Also be wary of the cost for extended warranties. If the cost of the extended warranties makes the system cost more than buying it new, avoid the purchase.

Return Policies

As with any product, you may get the refurbished computer and find that it does not meet your needs or has issues. Because of the nature of refurbished systems, you want to be very careful of the return and exchange policies offered by the seller. Most retailers tend to have more restrictive policies regarding refurbished machines and they may be sold as it which means you have no recourse for returning the product. Because of this, always read them carefully before making a purchase. Manufacturer refurbs often have been options than third party sellers.

Conclusions

Refurbished laptops and desktops are one way consumers can find a good deal, but they have to be much more informed before the purchase.

The key is to ask several key questions to know if it is really a good and safe deal:

  • Ÿ Is it sold by the manufacturer or a retailer?
  • Ÿ What is the price relative to the same PC new?
  • Ÿ Is the system comparable to an equivalent priced new PC?
  • Ÿ What type of warranty comes with the PC?
  • Ÿ Who will handle warranty work?
  • Ÿ Is there the option for a return?

If all of these can be answered satisfactorily, then consumers can generally feel secure in the purchase of a refurbished PC.


Make Your Battery Last Longer

Mobile phones come with lithium batteries which require some maintenance as long as they are used. Once you know how, you can optimize your phone’s battery life fairly easily.

1.Turn the phone off. Only do this if it’s going to be for several hours; turning a phone on/off actually uses a massive amount of power itself. This will probably be the most effective and simple way of conserving your battery’s power. Why? This will help conserve energy and also charge your phone. If you don’t plan on answering the phone while you’re sleeping or after business hours, just turn it off.

2.Stop searching for a signal. When you are in an area with poor or no signal, your phone will constantly look for a better connection, and will use up all your power doing so. This is easily understood if you have ever forgotten to turn off your phone on a flight. The best way to ensure longer battery life is to make sure you have a great signal where you use your phone. If you don’t have a perfect signal, get a cell phone repeater which will amplify the signal to provide near perfect reception anywhere or simply turn on flight mode.

3.Do not follow the method of full charge and full discharge. Avoid letting your cell phone’s battery run all the way down. Lithium-based batteries are designed to be charged early and often, and letting them get too low can damage the battery. With lithium-based batteries, doing shallow discharges and frequent charging prolongs battery life.

  1. Switch the vibrate function off on your phone. Use just the ring tone. The vibrate function uses additional battery power. Keep the ring tone volume as low as possible.

5.Turn off your phone’s back light. The back light is what makes the phone easier to read in bright light or outside. However, the light also uses battery power. If you can get by without it, your battery will last longer. If you have to use the back light, many phones will let you set the amount of time to leave the back light on. Shorten that amount of time. Usually, one or two seconds will be sufficient. Some phones have an ambient light sensor, which can turn off the back light in bright conditions and enable it in darker ones.

6.Avoid using unnecessary features. If you know it will be a while before your phone’s next charge, don’t use the camera or connect to the Internet. Flash photography can drain your battery especially quickly.

7.Keep calls short. This is obvious, but how many times have you heard someone on their mobile phone say, “I think my battery’s dying,” and then continue their conversation for several minutes? Sometimes, the dying battery is just an excuse to get off the phone, but if you really need to conserve the battery, limit your talk time.

8.Turn off Bluetooth. It will drain your battery very quickly. Only turn Bluetooth on when needed.

9.Same goes for WIFI, GPS, and infrared capabilities, if your phone has these features built in. Keep them off except when you need them.


How to Know When It’s Time to Replace Your Laptop’s Battery

No matter how well you treat your laptop’s battery, it will eventually die. If you’re lucky, it will be time to replace your laptop by the time its battery dies. If you’re not, you’ll need to replace the battery.

Battery death can seem sudden, but it doesn’t have to. Windows will warn you when your battery reaches extremely low capacity levels, but you can also keep your own tabs on its capacity.

Windows Will Warn You

Windows doesn’t normally keep you up-to-date with your battery’s capacity level. As you use it and it weakens, you’ll just notice that your laptop doesn’t seem to last as long on battery.

Eventually, when your battery reaches a low enough capacity level, Windows will warn you. You’ll see a red X appear on the standard battery icon in your system tray and, when you click it, Windows will inform you that you should “consider replacing your battery.” Windows also says that your computer might shut down suddenly because there’s a problem with your battery — in other words, your battery can’t hold enough of a charge to power your laptop for long when it’s not connected to an outlet.

Note that this warning was added in Windows 7, so you won’t see it if you’re using Windows Vista or XP.

How to Check Your Laptop’s Battery Capacity

If you’re curious just how far your laptop’s battery capacity has declined, you can use a third-party tool to view it. NirSoft’s free BatteryInfoView does this well, displaying the battery’s approximate wear level, the capacity it was designed to have, and the capacity it currently has.

Calibrating Your Battery

The information above may not be completely accurate if your battery requires calibration. For example, we had a battery that reported it was almost dead. Windows warned us that it was time to replace the battery and the battery appeared to be at 27.7% wear level according to its reported capacity.

After we calibrated the battery, Windows stopped warning us and the battery’s reported capacity went back up to 70.8%. The battery didn’t actually gain any additional charge, but the calibration helped the battery’s sensor actually detect how much capacity was in the battery. If Windows says it’s time to replace your battery, be sure to calibrate it first before checking its actual wear level. If you don’t, you may replace a battery that’s still in good enough shape. That would just be a waste of money.

Why Your Laptop’s Battery Capacity Declines

Laptop batteries decline due to a number of factors. Heat, usage, age — all of these things are bad for batteries. Batteries will slowly die no matter what — even if you put your battery in a closet and never touched it, it would slowly lose capacity due to age. However, if you never use your battery — say you use your laptop at your desk most of the time and it gets rather hot, which is bad for the battery — removing the battery can certainly help prolong its life.

Replacing Your Battery

If your laptop has a user-serviceable battery — that is, one you can remove on your own — you can replace your battery fairly easily. If your laptop doesn’t have a user-serviceable battery, you’ll need to contact the laptop’s manufacturer so they can crack your laptop open and change its battery for you.

Assuming you have a user-serviceable battery, you can order a replacement battery for your laptop model online. Don’t just head to eBay and buy the cheapest third-party batteries available — buy official batteries from a reputable company. Aftermarket batteries are often built on the cheap, with cut corners and insufficient testing. They can be dangerous — a cheap, counterfeit, and improperly designed battery could literally go up in flames.